Saturday, July 30, 2011
Susucaru 3: "Natural" With A Vengeance
“Susucaru 3” Vino da Tavola Rosato, no vintage indicated, but the “3” is from 2010. This is “natural” winemaking with a vengeance, from the famous eccentric Frank Cornelissen, who makes it from Nerello Mascalese grapes grown on Mt. Etna in Sicily. It's not like he doesn't warn you that the contents might be a bit, ah, variable. It says right on the label: “ATTENTION This wine has not been modified, neither chemically, nor mechanically and does not contain preservatives or stabilizers. It will develop natural sedimentation as our wines are not filtered or altered. It is important to store the wine below 60.8ºF (16ºC)”
On the nose, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, aka fabric softener, White Shoulders perfume, and hints of other commercial cleaning products. After 30 minutes the nose subsided a bit, or maybe we just got acclimated. There is some spicy red berry and cherry fruit somewhere on the palate, underneath the ongoing chemical assault. It's hugely ironic that a wine that has been so painstakingly produced without the aid of any additives should emerge from the bottle with the aromas of a surfactant factory.
We are told that every now and again, one of these wines can be magnificent, but not this bottle, not this time. It was tried again the next day: The nose had subsided a bit more, but the olfactory and other organoleptic references to cleaning products remained durable.
Those who have read this and still want to roll the dice on one of these should have a word with Les at Vinsite.